Tying in a new junction wall, particularly if it is for a large extension, can be very labour-intensive and time-consuming. A quick, simple and cost-effective alternative is the use of a ‘wall-starter’ system. There arevarious versions on the market but the basic principle for all of them is much the same. Wall starters comprise two […]

Again, when constructing extensions or making internal alterations, there is often a need to tie in a new wall at a 90-degree angle to an existing wall, in the form of a junction wall. Toothing-in and block bonding (see above) can be used for this purpose — the only essential difference is that the indents […]

Block bonding is similar in principle and practical methods to toothing but involves cutting out indentations into the end of the wall that are either three (minimum) or five (maximum) courses high. Using this method ensures that each indent achieves an optimum number of tie bricks. Block bonding is a little quicker and easier than […]

When constructing extensions or making internal alterations, there may be a need to extend the length of an existing wall. There are two recognized methods for this. Toothing Toothing involves cutting out every alternate brick at the stopped-end of a wall in order to build on new brickwork and continue the bonding arrangement through from […]

Re-pointing work should be carried out only in favourable weather conditions — never in wet or frosty weather or when rain or a frost is expected. After raking out the old mortar, and in readiness for re-pointing, all dust and debris must be removed from the joints with a brush. Any left behind will interfere […]

The mortar used for re-pointing should generally match the strength of the bricks and be a mix of cement, lime and sand. Suggested mix proportions for most applications would be 1:2:8. Walling that is more exposed to the weather would probably require a stronger mix, such as 1:1:6. Avoid using a harsh sand/cement mix that […]

The only solution is to remove the degraded mortar to a depth of at least 15mm and re-point the brickwork with new mortar. Removal of the old mortar between joints must be done carefully in order to avoid damage to the arrises of the bricks. A hammer and plugging chisel are preferred to an angle […]

Over long periods of time and prolonged exposure to the weather, mortar joints begin to deteriorate. This is more prevalent on old walls or buildings, which are likely to have been constructed with softer lime mortar and/or weaker mortar mixes. With successive winters, the mortar begins to succumb to the actions of frost, which causes […]

One of the most common problems associated with bricks and brickwork is that of ‘spalling’ or ‘spelching’, long after construction has been completed. This may be caused by frost damage — water in the brick freezes and then expands, and this can force the face off the brick (see Fig 267). A less common cause […]

Mortar bees (or masonry bees) are so called because they sometimes burrow into the soft mortar joints of old brick walls. There are a number of different species of bee that do this, but the most common has the scientific name of Osmia Rufa. In appearance it is rather like a small version of the […]