Setting-Out a Brick-on-Edge Coping

Three bricks laid on edge are equivalent in length to one brick, so a wall that is twenty bricks long, for example, will require sixty bricks laid on edge, with 10mm cross-joints, to form the coping.

Where a wall does not ‘work bricks’, an allowance must be made within the brick-on-edge coping to overcome this problem. Cut bricks within a brick-on-edge coping are not acceptable under any circumstances. The only remaining viable alternative is to make adjustments to the thickness of the cross-joints, either by thickening them to ‘lose’ the excess in the wall length or by closing them up, in order to fit in an extra brick-on-edge. Knowing which course of action to follow is best achieved by dry bonding the middle section of the brick-on-edge, in order to ascertain how much adjustment is required and in which direction (see Fig 211).

Setting-Out a Brick-on-Edge Coping

Fig. 211 The middle of the brick-on-edge coping is set-out by dry bonding.

Cross-joints should be of a consistent thickness, within a tolerance of + or – 3mm. Adjustment is fairly easy on long walls as very small individual adjustments can be made over the very large number of cross-joints, and these will be hardly noticeable in the context of the whole wall. Short walls with very few cross-joints offer much less scope for adjustment. Very large or very tight cross-joints will result, both of which will look poor. On very short walls that do not ‘work bricks’, consideration should be given as to whether a brick-on-edge coping is appropriate at all!

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